Arrive in Iceland at dawn. You’ll be alone on the road and feel like you’ve arrived on a strange, empty planet. / It rains, storms or mists every day in September. But sun always follows. / Horses are gentle and curious. Sheep are not. I was warned that sheep can wander onto the road, this is fact. Be patient and they’re figure it out. / Snæfellsnes peninsula. Go for Londrangar, the cairns, caves and waterfalls. I stopped in Ólafsvík, because I had to (I am an Ólafsson descendent). Stop for Bæjarfoss. / Take the roads you haven't read about. / Stykkisholmer was home for while. This was a good choice. / Black Sand Beach lives up to it’s name. / Play tourist. Ignore articles that deter you from visiting the Blue Lagoon, Gullfoss and Geysir. They’re popular for a reason. / Þingvellir National Park was the cherry on top of my Golden Circle day. If you drive through Selfoss make sure not to double back and miss it. / Hraunfossar. A bit out of the way. But there were two of us in front of this magnificent thing and nothing was more beautiful. / Reykjavik. Go to Stofan for the coffee and Laundromat Café for the pancakes. The best breakfast goes to Bergsson. / The showers smell like rotten eggs. You get over it.